What Your Stylist Wants You To Know… And Understand

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1. We love when you bring in photos, BUT only when they are realistic. When looking at hair inspiration, keep in mind what is feasible. Does the model have the same hair type, meaning is it fine or thick? If you have finer hair, we cannot make you look like Kim Kardashian without having to actually add hair to your head. Color is a whole other animal. If you have continually dyed your hair dark, those light blonde ombres are not an easy task. Lightener has to eat through all those layers of color and may require several appointments. Keep realistic expectations when bringing in photos to your stylist. We are beauticians not magicians.

2. There is no such thing as a “wash and wear” hairstyle. We can definitely achieve a low maintenance look, however, no maintenance is impossible. All hairstyles require some sort of product and finagling whether it be just combing or a little fluffing.

3. Count how many products we use. So many people say, “I can’t do anything with my hair” and when we ask what kind of products you use and you say, “none”, that is why. You will never be able to recreate the same look nor feel if you aren’t using products. And take this for an example, how many black heels do you own? Not all black shoes go with the same outfit. This means you may need a few “wardrobes” of hair products for different looks.

4. Do not change your color drastically too frequent. You hair is not a cat. It does not have 9 lives.

5. For color appointments please come with clean, dry hair. Color is more easily absorbed when it doesn’t have gunk and buildup to get through. And if we have to blow dry you before your color, we will charge you more for the added time and effort on our part.

6. If we tell you “no” or that will fry your hair, listen to us. You are our walking advertisements, we obviously do not want you advertising frazzled
hair. Trust us, we are only looking out for the integrity of your hair. However, if you must proceed, please budget for a deep conditioner. You will need it.

7. Do not blame us for giving you what you wanted. If you asked to go platinum blonde then realized you look much better as a brunette, we have to charge you. If you hate your new bangs, please don’t hate us. We only want to make you happy and beautiful. We live to please.

8. Split ends cannot be mended. Hair products cannot fuse hair together. There are products that will calm and smooth the fuzz, but the only thing that will get rid of split ends is a trim.

9. Salon products are better than Walmart’s and even though they may seem more costly, buy them. Why? Chemists. High end brands pay high-end bucks to chemists to create our luxurious products. Pantene, Pert, and Prauve are just cheap knockoffs with cheap ingredients. (Please refer to my blog Salon vs Drugstore for more information.)

10. Bleach is not as scary as you think. Many clients are terrified of bleach due to its so-called damaging effects. Bleach is only damaging when overlapped. Be honest with your hairstylist if you have had highlights or lightener in the past, even if you are brunette now. If your is long and you had highlights even two years ago, the lightener still lives on your ends.

11. We hate no-shows. If you need to reschedule an appointment or just cannot come in, please call us. We are not going to yell at you and this gives us the opportunity to fill your spot. Many of us work on commission. Without a booty in our chair we have no paycheck.

12. We would rather fix our mistake than you go elsewhere. You are not going to offend us if you are unhappy with something. Again, we live to please. We want you to be happy. It is devastating to us emotionally and financially when you go around talking about how unhappy you are with us and our work. Please let us know. We can only grow from our mistakes and if we don’t know, we can’t fix it.

13. Do realize we paid a lot of money for our education and we ARE educated professionals. I promise you, we kind of know what we are talking about. We will have a proper consultation with you and we understand that you are some smart cookies but we are the ones who have been trained.

14. If we are running behind, please be patient with us. You wouldn’t want us rushing on you to get to our next client. We try our best to give all our guests the same love and attention. If you just stay calm and be patient, we are guaranteed to give you the best customer service.

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The Dreaded Brass

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When you are a blonde like me, brassiness is your worst nightmare. Though, brunettes often feel our pain. But why does your hair turn that awful orange hue and what can you do about the dreaded brass?

First, is your hair brassy before you even leave the salon from your color appointment? Obviously your stylist needs to use a toner. A toner is a demi permanent hair glaze. The correct one can counteract the unwanted hues. Stylists can use a color opposite on the color wheel to neutralize the tone. For example, yellow tones can be neutralized by violet. When lifting hair, your underlying pigment is shown. A toner is needed to keep that pigment at bay. Since it is a deposit-only color, demi permanent glazes also work well for those who don’t color their hair but want a different. So, talk to your stylist about a toning glaze this way you can leave the salon with the perfect, eye-pleasing shade.

Why does your hair turn brassy between color appointments? There are several culprits that cause this. It all boils down to two things: elements that cause build up and elements that strip out color. Pollution and smoking are guaranteed to ruin your color. Using products with silicones or parabens can also lead to unsightly build up that cause brass as well as pool water and mineral deposits left by well water Sulfate shampoo, ocean water, and sun expose can strip your hair revealing that unwanted hue. However, there are many solutions that can keep the brass from happening.

1. Use a sulfate-free, color protecting shampoo. No ifs, ands, or buts. You pay a lot of money for your color, maintain it.
2. Once or twice a week use a color safe clarifying shampoo to rid your hair of build up.
3. Blondes, try a color depositing shampoo or conditioner to counteract the unwanted yellow-orange tones on your own. Try Clairol Shimmer Lights Shampoo or Redken Blonde Glam Platinum or Vanilla Color Depositing Conditioner.
4. Rinse hair with shower water before swimming to protect it from the harmful chemicals.
5. Cover your head to hide from sun exposure. Besides, hats are stylish and it will save your face.
6. Be sure to be using professional styling products, they contain no or are low on silicones and parabens and the hairsprays are low in alcohol content. You maintain your car with the good stuff, why not your hair?
7. Stop smoking.

Another issue may be an over deposit of color. When so many layers of color are on the hair the wanted color is unable to enter hair shaft and the bonds cannot be broken to allow the correct tone in. Sometimes its best to start fresh. A light color removal (done by a professional of course) can be used. Ask your stylist if this is a necessary procedure.

Most importantly, keep your hair healthy. The more damage there is, the more porous your hair becomes making it very challenging for your color to stay. Remember it is your stylists job to create the perfect color for you, but it is your job to maintain it.

Good Bye Brass!

Here’s One For the Guys

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Guys these days have taken on a new-found flare for their hair. Ladies, aren’t we excited? This is what happens when we take away their soap-on-a-rope. Plus, here is us girls potioning and lotioning, why shouldn’t they? Maybe they want to be the candy on our arm. I, personally, am okay with that. So grab your man and make him read this. Here, I will explain what hair products he should be using.


 

Let us start in the shower.

There are several shampoos, conditioners, and 2-in-1s that a specifically geared towards men. They have a fabulous masculine smell. However, you are not limited to just those. I would steer clear of any overly floral or fruity smells. Stick with a fresh, clean smell.

Short fine hair, use a normal, daily shampoo like Redken Go Clean. There is no need to use a conditioner. This will only make the follicles of your hair fall together and it won’t be easily styled.

Short coarse hair, try a 2-in-1 such as Redken Clean Spice. A 2-in-1 will add the needed hydration to keep it from feeling brittle, dry, or fuzzy.

If you have thin or thinning hair, use a bodifying shampoo. This will add girth to the hair shaft to give the illusion of thicker, fuller hair. Purchase a product like Redken Full Impact Shampoo.

Those of you with beautiful curls, use a shampoo and conditioner designated for those lovely locks. Redken Curvaceous has a unisex smell, won’t weigh your curls down, and will define them. Use both the shampoo and conditioner. It is lightweight enough for all hair types. Curls need extra moisture to keep them tame and frizz free.

Medium length and long hair should use both a shampoo and conditioner separately. You may not need to condition everyday if you have an oily texture, once to twice a week may suffice. Use a conditioner like Redken Finish Up in conjunction with the proper shampoo.

Do you have dandruff? Try a shampoo and/ or conditioner that is cooling to the scalp. Tea tree and mint will help calm the scalp and it smells amazing. Give Redken Invigorating Mint Clean Shampoo and Redken Invigorating Mint Conditioner.

Those of you who are product lovers and have build up, use an extra cleansing shampoo. Redken Clean Brew is a strong cleansing shampoo that can still be used daily. And guess what? It is hops base. Who doesn’t like anything that has to do with beer?

Next, lets style.

For those of you with medium to longer length, you will have to use a product before drying. A smoothing milk will be lightweight enough to not way it down but still tame the strays. Redken Align has a unisex smell that can be used on gentlemen as well as women. My curly head men, use a light weight curl defining lotion. Redken Curvaceous Ringlet will leave a product-less feel while springing your curls to life.

After hair is dry. Use the correct finishing product to define your style. There are countless products on the market, even just solely in the Redken world. Let me break them down for you.

Cream/Lotion- Flexible to moderate hold. Light weight, controls frizz. Great for all hair types (Redken Dishevel, Redken Get Groomed)

Gel- Stiff hold. Gives wet, shiny look. Do not use on thin or thinning hair. (Redken Grip Tight, Redken Stand Tough)

Pomade- Semi-solid product. Can define the messy look or hold more set styles. Varies in stiffness and shine. Thin to thinning hair should avoid. (Redken Polish Up)

Wax- Fairly solid. Controls and holds. Great for spiking. Can come in different formats such as a cream or spray as well as solid. Not for medium to long hair. (Redken High Up, Redken Maneuver)

Paste/ Putty- Soft variation of a gel or wax. Too heavy for fine, thin hair. Create a light gloss or shine. (Redken Work Hard)

Mud/Clay- Soft, fiber base. Can be used on all hair tips. Matte Finish. (Redken Outplay, Redken Firm Grasp)

Remember a little goes a long way. Apply product to finger tips and rub together before applying to the hair. Define your strands with your fingers to create spikes or a tousled look. Use a fine tooth comb to achieve a more sleek look. My curly hair dudes, keep your fingers out of your hair. The more you touch it, the more undefined and frizzy your curls can become.


 

Talk to your stylist about what product would be the best fit for you. And remember to support your salon.

Note: Products are not guaranteed unless purchased from professional salons.

Undertones De-Mystified

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We all know there are different skin tones. It is easy to figure out if you are fair, medium, dark or olive skin tone. However, two fair toned women may not be able to wear the same colors in clothing, makeup, and hair. Why? They have different undertones.

What in the world is an undertone? Your undertone is the color beneath your skin. You can think of it as a sort of shadow that reflects a certain color onto you. It is commonly confused with your skin tone. However, your skin tone can change with seasons. Your undertone never will.

We cannot properly choose makeup nor hair color without knowing what your undertone is.


 

Undertones are labeled as:
Cool (pink, red, or blueish tones)
Warm (yellow or golden tones)
Neutral (mix of both cool and warm tones)

It is a common misconception that all fair skinned people are cool and all tan people are warm. That is not the case. Though, olive skin tones are labeled primarily neutral.

How do you figure out what your undertone is? There are a few simple questions you can ask yourself and a few experiments you can do to figure this out.

1. Look at the vein inside of your wrist. Do you see a blue-green tone or a blue-purple tone? If you see a blue-green tone, you are warm. If you see a blue-purple tone, you are cool.

2. What color jewelry do you look better in? If you look better in gold, you are warm. Silver jewelry compliments cool.

3. Take of all makeup off and sit for 15 minutes until blood vessels are calmed. Look at yourself in the mirror and hold a white sheet of paper up to your cheek. What color is projected onto the paper? Do you see golds or grays?

4. Think of what colors of clothing or hair that you get complimented most on. Is it when you wear cooler or warmer shades? Take polls from friends, family, or coworkers if you have to.

We all have put clothes or makeup on and have had hair colors that wash us out. Now you know why. You are wearing colors that counteract the undertone of your skin. Makeup can look ashy, hair can look drab if they are cooler and you are a warm skin tone. Once you have discovered your skin’s undertones, you can then choose the right colors for you.

Lucky for you, I have compiled a little cheat sheet for you.


 

Hair Color:
If you are a warm skin tone, keep with golden blondes, honey browns, or coppers. If you are a cooler shade, choose ash blondes, chocolate browns, or mahoganies.

Foundation:
If you have a pink-blue cool undertone, choose a foundation that is neutral or pink based. If you are golden or peach based, you should wear a yellow or peach tone foundation.

Lip Color:
Neutral undertones are lucky. They can wear almost all nude, pink, or red shades. Cool undertones should stick with nude, mauve, plum, or berry. Warmer undertones should choose coral, honey, or red.

Please note: If you love having a certain hair color, wearing a certain color, or applying a I-can’t-live-without lip color, go for it! If you love it, flaunt it.

Fun Fact:
Teal flatters ALL skin tones and undertone! Find a fabulous blouse in this fun jewel tone and get noticed!

Give Me That Va-Va-Voom

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We all want volume! Whether you want your hair to have a little bit of life or, let me put this bluntly, sex kitten hair, we all want volume. Let me just tell you, I’m the queen of fluff. I can poof it and tease it with the best of them. I have found a few amazing products and techniques that can achieve va-va-voom for even the most challenged at doing their own hair.

Volume Products

Start with a volumizing product before you even blow dry. For all hair types, I am in love with Redken Guts. Spray at roots to give them lift or all over to add thickness to the entire hair shaft. If you have finer hair, use Guts at the roots in conjunction with Redken Thickening Lotion to make your hair double in thickness and volume. Pureology Levitation Mist is also a fabulous product for finer to medium-thickness hair to add airy volume.

Blow dry your hair upside down and/or in the opposite direction than you wear it. This will help your hair defy gravity. Be sure to use your fingers to break up any excess product you may have in certain areas or it may end up feeling crispy. If you are talented enough, use a round brush at the crown of your head and use the cool button on your tool to seal it in place.

Once dry, style as desired.

My absolute favorite product of all time is Redken Powder Grip. It is seriously “magic fairy dust”. Apply Powder Grip sparingly to the roots at the crown of your head and rub in with fingers. A little bit goes a long way. Powder Grip provides a gritty feeling to the hair You will surely know when you use too much.

If you tease on top of the Redken Powder Grip, you are in business. Take a small section of hair around your part and leave out. Take small section below this, hold the hair taught, and back comb with either a comb or teasing brush. Repeat this for a few more smaller sections down. Lay the small section of hair you left out over the ratting of the back comb and lightly smooth the hair with the comb or brush. Tease more at first, you can smooth it after.

Finish the look with hairspray. Try Redken Control Addict. It is a light weight but super powerful aerosol. No matter the type of hold you like, you will love Control Addict! Be sure to mist hairspray 12 inches away from your head to avoid over depositing.

You can refresh your style throughout the day or even the next with Redken Wind Blown. It is a matte finisher that adds tons of volume. It can be used as both a restyler and dry shampoo. Turn your head upside down and spray Wind Blown for extra va-va-voom. It has a fabulous smell too. Anyone next to you are guaranteed to smell your head.

All it takes is using a few amazing products and utilizing some simple techniques and volume can be easily achieved. Talk to your stylist about the take-home products you need and remember to support your salon. No product is guaranteed unless purchased from a professional.

Happy Fluffing!

Contouring Made Easy

I know all of you have heard the word “contour” a million times over since Kim Khardashian has sort of made it a huge phenomenon, We see all these crazy looking pictures on Pinterest of women with 50 million different colors of foundation slabbed all over their face. Looks scary, right? Later down the line, I will explain the method behind the madness and go more in depth with that technique. For now, I am going to explain an easier way, a sort of Contouring for Dummies tutorial.

The whole point of contouring is to make shadows on the face in the correct areas to make them appear thinner, smaller, or lifted. We all know the perfect face shape is an oval. With contouring, we can essentially make all face shapes appear to be an oval.

Here is a simple way to achieve this:

Start off by using your foundation and concealer as you normally would. Let me remind you a few key points when it comes to foundation. Blend, blend, blend on your neck, by your ears, and along your hair line. Choose the correct shade of both the foundation and the concealer. Be wary of choosing a concealer too light. This will only highlight the flaws or blemishes and accentuate fine lines and wrinkles.

Next, decide what face shape you are. Pull your hair back and stare in the mirror. Look at your forehead, chin, and the width of your cheekbones. You may be between two face shapes. Its okay. You can customize your own contour over time.

Face Shapes - Contouring

This photo shows what areas on each face need to be shadowed and the others that need to be highlighted. We highlight certain areas to, well, highlight them. We want the eye to be drawn there and for them to stand out to, again, create the oval face shape. (Notice, the oval face shape in this photo needs no shadows.)

Find a bronzer in a medium shade (not like an oompaloopa or to soft to notice). We want the bronzer to be more matte. Too much shimmer or sheen will create the opposite effect of creating depth and shadows. Our eyes are drawn to glitter (duh). Use a blush brush to apply the bronzer in the areas you need. A blush brush holds more product and is small and more easily controlled. You can be slightly heavy handed to assure you are creating noticeable shadows. Blend. Use a powder or kabuki brush to then blend your lines of the contouring.

A little tip to help you find your cheekbones. Hold a pen or pencil to your cheek and press it down to feel for the bone. Adjust the high end of the pen to find the level of degree your cheek bone goes. Contour in the hollow below the cheekbone. Its a little cheater.

Highlight the other designated areas. Choose a translucent powder that is 1-2 shades lighter than your skin tone. A highlighter can have some shimmer. Be careful of over doing it on the shimmer though for this may make your face look greasy especially if you have oily skin. Use a powder brush to apply the highlighter. It holds less product and will create a lighter, softer look.

If you are blush person, choose a blush that accentuates your skin tone. If you are a warmer skin tone, choose a shade like coral. If you are a cooler skin tone, try a more plum or deeper pink color. Only apply blush to the apples of your cheeks. Smile at yourself in the mirror. And while you are at it, tell yourself you are beautiful. Smiling will automatically show you where your apples are. Just don’t get the blush too close to your nose. You will look like you have a cold.

Once again, this is the simplest way I have used to contour a face. Its an easy way to achieve the “perfect oval shape” without have to apply a few different foundations. Its quicker and a more everyday contour. Play around and practice. Take the time to examine your face shape and to determine the areas that need to be smaller or lifted and the areas that need to stand out.

A more in depth version of contouring will come soon.

Happy Contouring!

 

 

 

Blow Like A Pro

Every one of my clients say “Oh, I wish I could take you home with me. I can never style my hair the way you do.” Yes, you can. However, you will never be able to achieve the same look if you aren’t using the products I used on you or the correct technique. It was starts with the Blow Dry.

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Follow these easy tips and tricks for a salon-perfect blow dry and finally be able to blow like a pro.

  • Blot and squeeze the excess moisture out of your hair with a towel before applying product. Do not rub the towel on your hair as this can cause friction and lead to unwanted breakage and frizz. Too damp of hair will lessen the effects of the product. Too dry of hair will only make your hair feel crunchy with product.
  • Only comb your tangles with a wide tooth comb, not a brush. Use a detangler such as Redken Clear Moisture Polishing Prep to help aid the comb through.
  • There are no ifs, ands, or buts about it, you must use product, I hear too many people say, “Oh, I can’t use product. It makes my hair feel (insert negative description).” You are using the incorrect product or aren’t using it correctly. You will never achieve that salon blow out on your own without starting from the same base.
  • The right potion or lotion will make or break your blow dry. Be careful of using a product that may be too heavy and thick if you have finer hair. Read the instructions and make sure you consult your stylist on what is best for you.
  • Try priming your hair. When the hair is damp, before other products, apply a primer like new Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Express Primer to protect hair from heat, allow other products to saturate the hair effectively, and speed up the drying time. Yes, you read that correctly. It will lessen the time by 50%.
  • Blow dry with your fingers until it is 80% dry. This again will cut the time than if you were only using a brush, protect hair from breakage. and give you more control.
  • Use a blow dryer with a concentrator. This allows the air to be “concentrated” on a certain area. Use it to your advantage before and during blow drying with a brush.
  • Blow dry the top and side sections of your hair in the opposite direction until dry then blast them with a cool shot by pressing the cool button on your tool. This will give you a ton of more volume since it will want to defy gravity and the cool shot with solidify it in its place.
  • Choose the right brush. A round brush will create smoothness and volume where as a flat brush or paddle brush will generally create a sleeker, straight look. Ask your stylist what is best for you. Also, imply about a Blow Dry Boot Camp. Your stylist will then be able to block time just for you to show you how to properly use your own tools.
  • Think small to go big. Section off your hair with clips so you can focus on one section at a time. This allows more control, the section will dry faster, and you will create bigger and better volume.
  • Beware of the bang. Pay particular attention to direction your bangs go in versus the way you want them to go. Use the concentrator to help guide them to where they need to be. Be careful when using a round brush on bangs. It creates too much bend. We are not trying to bring back the 80s fluffy bangs back.
  • Finish! Always, no matter what, use a hairspray. You can use an extremely light hold to smooth any fly-a-ways and create a soft look. Use a harder hold hairspray to keep your style in place. Try Redken Contol Addict for the best of both worlds. It is a soft feel, no helmet head, won’t move in a wind storm kind of hairspray.
  • Extend your blow out for a second day by using a restyler or dry shampoo. Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Two Day Extender, for example, will absorb excess oil and keep your style going strong. Also, try Redken Wind Blown to restyle and add the volume back into your second day hair. Not only that, it smells amazing and everyone around you will love that too.

It will take practice and patience to learn and successfully conquer the blow dry. Take your time and don’t just give up. With the right blow dry, you then can create a salon-perfect look with other tools, but it all starts at the base. And again, I cannot stress enough, use products!

Happy Blowing!